Just Abstract How-To
The information here is for instructional purposes only.
You should not do anything that is illegal for your area.
All of the information here can be used as useful tools
when used with the proper precautions.
The information here is for instructional purposes only.
You should not do anything that is illegal for your area.
All of the information here can be used as useful tools
when used with the proper precautions.
I'm gonna mess with your heads for a minute. Below are two videos that are based on Calloway's linear magnetic V-gate. The first video (on the left) is a simple demonstration of the V-gate formed into a wheel. The second video (on the right) is a mechanical version of what the guy in the other video was doing. So you decide, is this real or is it fake? Does this prove that perpetual motion is possible?
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Published on May 1, 2015Here, I make a control unit for creating chaser animations for my various Satelluxe creations (www.satelluxe.com). It's composed of two circuit boards, one that handles the logic and another to control the high-voltage loads. The full circuit is programmed with numerous animation patterns, the speed and brightness of which can be adjusted with a control panel.
Note: This video is not intended to be a tutorial. To learn the ins and outs of making PCBs at home, Google "toner transfer method." However, I will include a few notes specific to this video: ▶ I design my circuit boards in CadSoft Eagle and print the final layup from Adobe Illustrator. ▶ I print on HP Glossy Premium Presentation Paper for laser printers (CG988A), but I also highly recommend Pulsar Toner Transfer Paper. ▶ I currently print on an HP LaserJet Pro P1102w. ▶ The sanding is to remove surface oxidation on the copper-clad board. As you might be able to tell, this particular stock had been sitting for quite a while and had become pretty cloudy. ▶ The laminator I use is GBC's Personal Laminator, model 1701987. It's no longer manufactured, but you can find a current, recommended model at http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/.... This is where I was led to the GBC I use, which I've been very happy with for a number of years. ▶ I wear cotton gloves once I begin cleaning the copper-clad board (a) to avoid contaminating it with oils before applying the toner mask, and (b) because the boards get pretty hot coming out of the laminator. ▶ The etching solution is two parts hydrogen peroxide (available at any drug store) and one part muriatic acid (available at nearly any hardware store). ▶ The toner mask sometimes looks white because, with the HP paper I use, a thin layer of paper sticks to the toner. It appears lighter or darker depending on lighting and moisture. ▶ The "silk screen" on the top is added simply by using the same toner-transfer process. ▶ My drill is a Proxxon Precision Rotary Tool, model FBS 115/E, mounted in Proxxon's Drill Stand MB 140/S. ▶ The red thing with all the holes in it is a homemade fume extractor. ▶ My soldering iron is a Weller WLC100. ▶ The spray I coat the circuit boards with is Techspray's Fine-L-Kote HT, a conformal coating that prevents oxidation. ▶ I created the original circuit box from modeling styrene, then molded it using Smooth-On Mold Star silicone. The cast is made with Smooth-Cast 320 resin. Casting a box is a little pricier, but saves loads of time over building one from scratch every time. You can find more about these materials at www.smooth-on.com. ▶ The arrow shown at the end is a custom, scaled-up version of my Bristow arrow (http://satelluxe.com/products/bristow). This is a good example of why you should download the videos that you like. The above video was a good one on flash powder, but was deleted by YouTube. Below are still the weights to make the various standard crackers.
Salutes M80 is 9/16"x1 1/2" 3 grams flash powder M100 is 3/4"x 2 1/2" 10g 1/4 stick is 1"x2 1/2" 15g 1/2 stick is 1"x3 1/2" 30g or 3/4"x6" Full is 1x6" 60g |
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